Monday October 12th, 2009

Marchesa Spring/Summer Ready-to-wear 2010 New York

Masha Markina, Laine Rogova and Svieta Nemkova in Marchesa, New York.

Masha Markina, Laine Rogova and Svieta Nemkova in Marchesa, New York.

A lot of people seem to have the perception that Marchesa only had one big bang in fashion and that was when the high-end American label was first established by Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig in 2004. Since then, it stayed in the same spot. Well… Despite what everyone says, I still like their pretty collections. It’s hard not to find it irresistible, no?

Carolyn Geh and Danni Li in Marchesa, New York.

Carolyn Geh and Danni Li in Marchesa, New York.

For Spring/Summer 2010, I think the most interesting thing model-turned-actress/designer Georgina Chapman did for the label Marchesa was to infuse a sharpness into the sugar sweet collection. Ms. Chapman explained that the inspiration indeed hailed from the glorious Madame Butterfly herself, the provocative heroine from Giacomo Puccini’s opera (1904). Consequently, we saw a lot of crisp straight lines, obi-esque ruffles as well as kimono-wrap style in this season’s wardrobe, infusing a strong flavour of the east to this modern collection. I just love Masha Markina in her Oriental-flavored white coat-dress. Practical and pretty!

Irina Vodolazova, Delphie and Eugenia Mandzhieva in Marchesa, New York.

Irina Vodolazova, Delphie and Eugenia Mandzhieva in Marchesa, New York.

We also saw a lot of black and white this season, as Ms. Chapman used these contrasting colours to tattoo wild floral prints on the dresses… or even cut it out daringly. I just love Chinese model Danni Li in that audaciously bold black number. It is exaggerated not only with the dramatic colour contrast and the hyperbolized shape, but also with the sexy cut outs baring those gorgeous lean long legs of hers.

Uliana Tikhova, Alisa Matviychuk and Bregje Heinen in Marchesa, New York.

Uliana Tikhova, Alisa Matviychuk and Bregje Heinen in Marchesa, New York.

Similar to those cut outs, the tattoo print this season infuse a sense of audacity. I just love Laine Rogova and Ukrainian model Alisa Matviychuk in those floral tattooed stockings. It reminds me of the singer/style icon, Amy Winehouse and instantaneously, the thought of seeing Ms. Winehouse and Mrs Obama together wearing one of these strikes me. Perhaps the one-shouldered column dress, which Russian model Svieta Nemkova presented at the show? I just love how the dress appears somewhat tainted with blackness. It is very symbolic yet simply sleek and stylish!

Uliana Tikhova and Anne Sophie Monrad in Marchesa, New York.

Uliana Tikhova and Anne Sophie Monrad in Marchesa, New York.

Towards the end, Ms. Chapman offered something on the softer side. Something that is subtle and utterly romantic. It reminds me of the fairytale, The Swan Lake, because of the dreamy volume of the dresses as well as the soft colours used – white, lila and sky blue.
I don’t think Marchesa is 100% monotonous. Every season, there is something new, you just have to have an open eye to inspect the collection and spot these changes.

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