Archive for November 2008

Sunday November 30th, 2008

Le Smoking La Perla

Dear Santa and Secret Santa,

Just to avoid the simple matter of purchasing unappreciated wasted gifts so as to endorse economical and environmental sustainability amongst this economical crisis, why not just place a nice friendly Eastern European boyfriend-will-turn-husband (who somehow happens to be also a millionaire) into my Christmas stocking this year? It is the best way to fullfill all my wishes, in particular the ones that involve being spoilt in the heaven of La Perla (Available in a wide range at barenecessities, who is doing the good deeds at the moment and offering free shipping for purchases of above $USD25 within the U.S.), as shown below!

Ooh… You are ever so great! Thank you so much!

Yours,

-Yulya-

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Thursday November 27th, 2008

Christian Dior Fall Haute Couture 2006 Paris

Although this fall show for Christian Dior’s Haute Couture Collection showcased only in July 2006, it already seems like a century ago in today’s hyper fast paced world of fashion. Despite that, because this video had been running on a loop on my real player this whole week, I feel like I have something to say about it and so here it goes. The show was simply spectacular! It had the glamorous and extravagant elements of a typical collection by designer John Galliano, but of course, pushed to the limit and showcased in max power that only makes us dream and dare for more.

  • Guard of Armour

This opening segment is undoubtedly my favorite for its fantastic elements to transform and bring the audience to the surreal exclusive world of Mr. Galliano’s pure magical creation. The first look that appeared on the runway was a black hourglass dress heavily bejewelled with metallic armour of the same colour worn by Swiss model Nadine Strittmatter along to a soundtrack that assists to create an eerie supernatural environment. As each note is sounded, this uncanny feeling is intensified. As a succession of models who almost seemed like cold-blooded guards with their hyperglamorous headdress and armour past by, one cannot help but notice each movement the girls make in this body-hugging dress and how the hips sway along rhythmically, as the gilded chain mail of the headdress clash together creating that distinct sound in the silence of the night amidst the Renaissance garden, which Mr. Galliano has created as the setting of this season’s show.

Nadine Strittmatter, Eugenia Volodina and Ai Tominaga in Christian Dior Haute Couture

Nadine Strittmatter, Eugenia Volodina and Ai Tominaga in Christian Dior Haute Couture

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Wednesday November 26th, 2008

Jil Sander Spring/Summer Ready-to-wear 2009 Milano

I had been looking forward to seeing the entire Jil Sander collection for awhile and now that I have seen this display of purely remarkable creation, I feel a little scared about writing about it, because it is simply amazing! If I don’t write enough, I do not focus enough on the collection; and if I write too much, I will kill the simplicity of an iconique  Jil Sander Collection.

While any references are made in a minimal fashion, which in turn allows the ingenious Simons to exhibit his freedom to be inspired by the moment; the philosophy of the German fashion house to focus on elements of purity is no doubt present in this season’s collection as well.

I love the show, because it is very twisted in a peek-a-boo way! It really plays with the viewers of the clothes in that obscure manner. The hypersexual element is very minimal but when tuned to the right channel, it is very voluminous and so powerful, which makes it fit to be presented in the city that is no stranger to sex and not inferior to other collections presented there. The black stretch bodysuits with silken skeins of fringing drapping down accentuate every curve of a woman’s body perfectly and eroticise it to present a look that is simply understated in a sensual sexual way yet elegant and chic, see Polish Model Magdalena Frackowiak in her first outfit. In fact, the entire look is balanced ingeniously with an equal emphasis on the back of the various pieces. Some of which are opened up bare or draped with silken skeins of fringing – perhaps symbolising a sort of opening up as Simons brings us to venture with him into a brand new world that is incredibly streamlined and modern.

  • Fringed Body

Magdalena Frackowiak, Alyona Osmanova and Olga Sherer in Jil Sander

Magdalena Frackowiak, Alyona Osmanova and Olga Sherer in Jil Sander

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Posted by Posted by Yulya X under Filed under Milano, Ready-to-wear, Runway looks, S/S09, Womenswear Comments 6 Comments »

Tuesday November 25th, 2008

Strenesse Gabriele Strehle Fall/Winter Collection 2008

At first, I was not so sure whether I would like French model Morgane Dubléd in this season’s lookbook for Strenesse Gabriele Strehle. It is just that she had been around for a while and it seemed like I had seen everything there is to see about her. As I saw look #1 with Morgane wearing a tailored suit with her hair ironed completely flat, I thought this lookbook could not be more tragically flat than this.

Contrary to my first impression which no doubt underestimated the lookbook by far, the more I looked at the lookbook, the more I see Vogue Paris’ editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld. Not only because of her iconic hair style, but also because of the styling and designs of the clothes: a mix of rich luxurious coats as well as finely tailored pieces in a colour palette that the chic Ms Roitfeld is often seen out in. Perhaps Ms Roitfeld is the inspiration for the collection this season, yet the woman designer Gabriele Strehle is designing for remains true to the identity of the fashion brand: a woman whom is fresh, expressive and has that youthful energy and attitude.

French model Morgane Dubléd in Strenesse Gabriele Strehle

French model Morgane Dubléd in Strenesse Gabriele Strehle

There are a few corporate looks in this collection, but they are for sure not flat and boring, but rather worn with that unmistakeable Strenesse attitude. The upper body tends to be really restrained to create an extremely silhouetted look that really accentuates the curves around the upper body, while the pants this season go two ways: tight or Balmain-esque wide-legged disco pants. The tight style could be in the chimneypipe shape or skin-tight skinny with an emphasis on the lace-up style, which gives a rebellious twist to the look, but given the fact that it is made of 98% Cotton and 2% Spandex, it is much more comfortable than leather.

On the other hand, this season’s coats must not be neglected, as they are luxurious as ever and come in a range of colours to choose from, with the one in yellow doubtlessly standing out. My favorite piece in the collection is definitely the leather dress in the golden shade of camel. The colour is very natural and the entire look is very classical and elegant given by the silhouette of the dress yet this almost nude colour is also very erotic. So it is really a complex piece and is so sexy even though no cleavage is shown. Unquestionably, a piece worth buying!

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Strenesse Gabriele Strehle Spring/Summer Collection 2008

There are not so many German designers on the international market, let alone ones that are aimed towards a younger audience. Hugo Boss is predominantly the pioneering manufacturer of finely tailored suits… and more suits; while the fashion house of Escada, founded in 1978 by Swedish model/designer Margaretha Ley and husband Wolfgang Ley, continues aiming its market at the older generation, despite the fact that the interest of reaching out to the ‘daughter’ generation had been expressed several times before. For me, Strenesse succeeds in that area and that is distinctly evident in the Spring/Summer collection, which is so fresh and full of that youthful energy and attitude that is unique to the brand of Strenesse Gabriele Strehle. To me, part of that is possible because of the leggy Slovakian model Zuzana Gregorova. With a pair of bright sparkling eyes juxtaposed with big eyebrows and a kissable pout, Zuzanka’s look is no doubt unique and one of the most sought-after faces in the industry this season. Her expression, her poses and her body language are just spot on with the DNA of the German fashion brand in this photoshoot.

What I also like about this season is the vivid colour palette, which is exactly like the coming of spring and summer when everything comes alive. Particularly, colours like red chilli, sunshine yellow and forest green will surely make anyone stand out in a crowd and look incredible. These colours especially look great on satin which gives a soft silky touch that is perfect for a simple, sleek yet elegant look for a great night out.

For sure, this collection makes me yearn for spring to come even more!

Slovakian model Zuzana Gregorova in Strenesse Gabriele Strehle

Slovakian model Zuzana Gregorova in Strenesse Gabriele Strehle

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Monday November 24th, 2008

Helmut Lang Spring/Summer Ready-to-wear 2009 New York

For sure, Helmut Lang is one of my favorite labels. The notably-understated fashion brand, which was created by the Austrian fashion designer in 1986 relaunched two years ago and is now under the creative direction of the designer duo Nicole Colovos and her husband Michael Colovos.

In August 2008, Mr. Lang – the creator of the house and the pioneer of minimalism – had a solo exhibition at the Kestnergesellschaft in Hanover, Germany titled “ALLES GLEICH SCHWER” meaning “everything equally hard” in German. This left me ponder upon his work over the years. Although everything in life seems to be tough, he has no doubt made dressing simple for women with the words chic, sleek and elegance ingrained as a part of the DNA of the fashion house. Today, the philosophy lives on. This season’s design continues to work on organic shapes while interweaving elements of nature and the architectural component of the city to give the perfect balance in life. I love this season’s colour palette: black, white and grey with a hint of fluorescent yellow. The macabre spider designs are by the British artist Jessica Albarn and create a look with a twist! Moreover, the cuts are so perfect and would complement any body shape. I would definitely take everything below home.

Model Sunniva Stordahl in Helmut Lang

Model Sunniva Stordahl in Helmut Lang

Model Sunniva Stordahl in Helmut Lang

Model Sunniva Stordahl in Helmut Lang

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Luella T-Shirts

Dear Ruslana,

Since you are working in Hong Kong and Shenzhen now, could you be so kind to take a trip to “Elements” to find the following two Luella T-Shirts for me. They are not even on the Luella website and netaporter says the Pony print T-shirt is an exclusive to them, but if you could find something similar, that’d be great! Thank you!

Luella Paisley bunny T-shirt

Luella Paisley bunny T-shirt £59.57

Luella Pony print T-shirt

Luella Pony print T-shirt £68.08

Love you and many thanks!

Yours,

-Yulya X-

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Sunday November 23rd, 2008

Christmas Wish List

Dear friends,

I was browsing netaporter and guess what? Sales are on! Since Christmas is just around the corner, so why not let me assist you with these great deals before it’s too late? Listed below in alphabetical order.

3.1 Phillip Lim

  • Jersey drape-back dress (Was £178.72   Now £89.36)

A simple airy tank dress for stylish dress-down days that will see you through the summer months. An easy to wear piece like this should be matched with a laid back attitude so pair with gladiator sandals and oversized sunglasses. Shown here with a Moschino Cheap & Chic jacket, Chloé bag and shoes and a Michael Kors belt. White cotton jersey tank dress with a drawstring pleated draped bubble back. 3.1 Phillip Lim dress has a scoop neck and simply slips on. 100% cotton. Dry clean. Product code: 30088.

 3.1 Phillip Lim Jersey drape-back dress

3.1 Phillip Lim Jersey drape-back dress

Alexander McQueen

  • Skull motif top (Was £106.38   Now £79.78)

Navy paper cotton T-shirt with a floral skull motif on the front. Alexander McQueen T-shirt has short sleeves, a round neckline and simply pulls on. An iconic top from McQueen with its instantly recognisable signature skull motif. 100% cotton. Dry clean only. Italian sizing.

Alexander McQueen Skull motif top

Alexander McQueen Skull motif top

D&G Dolce & Gabbana

  • One-shoulder mini dress (Was £165.96   Now £82.98)

A casually cool bubble dress with a dramatic asymmetric strap that is the perfect day-to-night option. Here, the strap can be adjusted to be worn across the chest or simply across one shoulder. Shown here with Marni shoes and an Erickson Beamon cuff. Black cotton one-shoulder mini bubble dress. D&G DOLCE&GABBANA dress has contrast straps with a clip fastening, stitch detailing throughout, contrast side strip and band around bust, two slit front pockets, an exposed zip and two patch pockets at back. 98% cotton, 2% elastane. Machine wash. Italian sizing. Product code: 31413.

D&G Dolce & Gabbana One-shoulder mini dress

D&G Dolce & Gabbana One-shoulder mini dress

Helmut Lang

  • Button-Front Top (Was £123.40   Now £61.70)

With a hint of futuristic detailing, this Helmut Lang basic will incorporate a contemporary energy to a sleek suit or tailored look. The luxe neutral hue goes well with darker tones and looks fabulous with glistening metallic accessories. Shown here with a Rick Owens jacket, Stella McCartney jeans, a Pauric Sweeney bag, a Jade Jagger bangle and Chloé pumps. Gray tan jersey cotton top with central cotton twill bib. Helmut Lang top has a button fastening placket on front, button fastening tabs on sleeves and a round neck. 100% cotton. Dry clean. Product code: 30292

Helmut Lang Button Front Top

Helmut Lang Button Front Top

  • Crinkled satin dress (Was £229.79   Now £160.85)

A simple and chic dress which is lifted by the crinkled finish of the fabric. Shown here with Chloé pumps, a Stella McCartney clutch and a Roberto Cavalli bangle. 90% triacetate, 10% polyester. Dry clean only. US sizing. Light gray crinkled satin sleeveless dress with deep side pockets. Helmut Lang dress has a round neck, stitched detail, panel detailing and a double zip at the back to fasten. Product code: 28803

Helmut Lang Crinkled satin dress

Helmut Lang Crinkled satin dress

Jonathan Saunders

  • Mockford sash dress (Was £874.51   Now £612.15)

Jonathan Saunders is regarded as one of the most conceptual contemporary designers and uses color to update classic pieces. This fitted, strapless cocktail look is typical of the designer’s intelligent approach to fashion and is a modern eveningwear style in fabulous tones for spring. Ivory silk twill bustier dress with multicolored asymmetric shoulder sash. Jonathan Saunders dress has a buckle fastening belt at waist, a boned bust and a zip fastening on side. 100% silk. Dry clean. French sizing.

Jonathan Saunders Mockford sash dress

Jonathan Saunders Mockford sash dress

K Karl Lagerfeld

  • Sleeveless pleated bib shirt (Was £140.43   Now £70.21)

Karl Lagerfeld designs for the K Karl Lagerfeld line are simple with key basic pieces paired together to produce a streamlined, crisp aesthetic that echoes the iconic designer’s infamous style. Shown here with a Todd Lynn jacket, Superfine jeans, Marc Jacobs shoes and a Chloé bag. White cotton sleeveless shirt with pleated bib front. K Karl Lagerfeld shirt is demi-sheer and has buttons through front. 100% cotton. Dry clean. Machine wash. Product code: 29851.

 K Karl Lagerfeld Sleeveless pleated bib shirt

K Karl Lagerfeld Sleeveless pleated bib shirt

Sonia by Sonia Rykiel

  • Stud trim dress (Was £178.72   Now £89.36)

This versatile trapeze shape makes a fabulous day-to-night look which can be dressed up or down with ease. To use the dress to its maximum potential cinch at the waist with a skinny belt and add a pop of color in your accessories. Shown here with Chloé shoes, bag and cuff and a Miu Miu belt. 70% cotton, 30% polyester; studs: 100% metal. Dry clean only. Black cotton smock dress with a metal stud trim on wide neckline. Sonia by Sonia Rykiel dress has short sleeves, a large stitched hemline and front side pockets. Product code: 29927

Sonia by Sonia Rykiel Stud trim dress

Sonia by Sonia Rykiel Stud trim dress

Marchesa

  • Crystal embellished dress (Was £2,904   Now £2,178)

Marchesa is the reigning queen of eveningwear labels. This simple and chic shape is adorned with eye-catching Swarovski crystals. The relaxed cut and cropped hem of the silhouette lend this piece a calm air whilst the shimmering crystal embellishment adds a luxurious feel. Perfect for a modern cocktail look. Shown here with Jimmy Choo shoes and bag. 100% silk. Dry clean. US sizing. Ivory silk twill sheath dress with Swarovski crystal embellishment. Marchesa dress has short sleeves, a zip fastening on back and falls above the knee. Product code: 27458.

Marchesa Crystal embellished dress

Marchesa Crystal embellished dress

  • Embellished tunic dress (Was £2,057   Now £1,028.50)

Exude effortless glamour in this luxe ’60s-inspired tunic with opulent embellishment from Marchesa – the A-list design house of choice. A beautiful piece which makes a fabulous investment for years to come. Shown here with Christian Louboutin shoes and a VBH clutch. 100% silk. Dry clean. US sizing. Black silk tunic dress with jeweled boat neck. Marchesa dress has three quarter length sleeves, a zip fastening on back and falls to the knee. Product code: 23912

Marchesa Embellished tunic dress

Marchesa Embellished tunic dress

  • Gem embellished shift dress (Was £1,617   Now £1,212.75)

This dress contrasts a simple classic shape and beautiful intricate detailing in the best possible way. Its subtlety and elegance makes for the perfect evening choice that is as understated as it is beautiful. Shown here with a Chloé bag, Jimmy Choo shoes and Alexander McQueen bangles. White silk crepe shift dress with gem embellished neckline. Marchesa dress has a wide boat neck, darting at front, cap sleeves, a zip through the back and is fully lined. 100% silk. Dry clean. US sizing. Product code: 32229.

Marchesa Gem embellished shift dress

Marchesa Gem embellished shift dress

Moschino Cheap & Chic

  • Ruffle-front dress (Was £280.85   Now £210.64)

A fabulous dress with eye-catching ruffle detailing, ideal for a day or early evening function. Shown here with a Moschino Cheap & Chic jacket, Jimmy Choo shoes and a VBH clutch. Italian sizing. Silver sleeveless above knee length dress with a large ruffle through the front. Moschino Cheap & Chic has ruched detail at the back, a round neck, a zip at the side to fasten and is fully lined. Product code: 28277

Moschino Cheap & Chic Ruffle-front dress

Moschino Cheap & Chic Ruffle-front dress

Get them before they are gone.

Yours,

-Yulya X-

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Vogue AU December 2008 – Lily Donaldson

Tragedy striked me today when I saw that Vogue Paris September 2008 issue is already off the shelf in my local newsagency. How it felt like the end of the world to be stranded on a completely isolated island from the World of chic and elegance? Then, in the darkness of despair, the high-shine high-voltage silver tube of mascara from Benefit which comes free with the December issue of Vogue Australia silently called out to me begging me to take it home as if its a loveless child at an orphanage. In exchange, I obediently paid the proprietor a large sum of donation.

Flipping through the magazine, either it is because I have not been keeping up to date with magazines and editorials or is Vogue Australia actually more interesting nowadays. The style of the entire magazine seems more creative and more like what a fashion magazine should be. It seems to be quite spot on with the trends as well as new girls. Lily Donaldson on the cover is definitely not a bad choice, though her face may be a little dull at times. Nonetheless, for those of you who could not afford the airfreight copy of Vogue Nippon December 2008 and missed the chance to see Carmen Kass in “Stranger in a Strange Land” (Photography by Yelena Yemchuk. Styled by Anastasia Barbieri), Vogue Australia December 2008 offers that chance for you to catch up with that with a 24-page feature.

Rating: 8/10 (for the mascara!).

COVER//Lily Donaldson

Photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde & Vindooh Matadin

Styled by George Cortina

(Re-print from VOGUE NIPPON)

British model Lily Donaldson on cover of Vogue Nippon December 2008 Reprint from Vogue Nippon

British model Lily Donaldson on cover of Vogue Nippon December 2008 Reprint from Vogue Nippon

VOGUE VIEW//Sasha Pivovarova

Photographed by David Sims

Styled by Grace Coddington

(Re-print from US VOGUE)

INDECENT EXPOSURE (Click here or here) //Tallulah Morton & Andreea

Photographed by Troyt Coburn

Styled by Geoffrey Burger Nolan

14 pages

A LIGHT TOUCH (Click here)//Jessica Hart

Photographed by Jason Capobianco

Styled by Victoria Collison

8 pages

STRANGER IN A STRANGE LAND (Click here)//Carmen Kass

Photographed by Yelena Yemchuk

Styled by Anastasia Barbieri

24 pages

A CHARMED LIFE//?

Photographed by Troyt Coburn

Styled by Geoffrey Burger Nolan

8 pages

IN THE FLESH//?

Photographed by Lachlan Bailey

Styled by Jonathan Kaye

8 pages

COLLECTORS EDITION//?

Skye McCardle-Klingender

Photographed by Hugh Stewart

Styled by Victoria Collison

6 pages

More here.

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Yves Saint Laurent Spring/Summer Ready-to-wear 2009 Paris

Just as I was wondering what could possibly outshine that spectacular show from last season, the fireworks have already been lighted. The Yves Saint Laurent show has officially begun! Frankly speaking, I simply do not know where to start. The show was just amazing – ultra Parisian yet very Pilati in all ways! For me, as each look emerged on the slideshow on style.com, it came to me like a succession of seawaves – very soothing yet each look was so unique and ultimately extremely overwhelming!

  • Black Plague

The black trend has been going on for a while now. To move away from the darkness of the past, this season’s black comes in a twist that intertwines classicism with orientalist modernism and strikes in max power! Evident of this is the first look at the Yves Saint Laurent show worn by the Martinique-born model Sigrid Agren (Elite). Wearing a black midriff top, a matching finely-tailored skirt and a coat, the look has been tailored to meet the high standards of Parisian chic, elegance and luxury but at the same emitting a sexual sensual refinement that is quintescential and at the same time also modern and very today. Ultimately, that is another very brave move on the part of Creative Designer of the French Luxury House Stefano Pilati. As the iconic French actress Catherine Deneuve said after the show, it was a simple display of “everything but vulgar”.

Sigrid Agren, Mina Cvetkovic and Yulia Kharlaponova in Yves Saint Laurent

Sigrid Agren, Mina Cvetkovic and Yulia Kharlaponova in Yves Saint Laurent

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